Alpine draw sling length reddit. Sep 1, 2023 · We tested climbing slings and runners from Mammut, Black Diamond, Petzl, Sterling and others to find the absolute best What is the length for a quad length sling. alpine draw. Each cam is on it's own biner and I just clip the alpine draw to the cam and leave the racking biner. Additionally, a 60 centimeter sling can be quickly tripled up by using two carabiners to create an extended alpine quick draw. On here sits all the extra stuff. Obviously that changes depending on route length. The rubber retainer on the rope-side biner keeps the biner from rotating. Careful using same color biners on both ends of an alpine draw if ever clipping into bolts. When you use the nut tool with only a carabiner clip on it, just clip the carabiner it’s on to either the alpine draw your gear stuck in the rock is connected to, or to the rope itself. This is the more alpine style looking ones without a dogbone that seems almost an inch thick. com 2x 10cm express quick-draws 4c 17cm express quick-draws 4x 30cm open sling quick-draws 4x 60cm alpine quick-draws Note on racking The length of these draws has the advantage of allowing you to taper the length when racked, as well as giving you a 50/50 split on right and left racks (so you should be able to get the right quick-draw with either Depends on the route and the rack. Using a longer or shorter sling is usually only advisable in specific circumstances or on routes that you know require a different size. I differ from the standard of sport anchors myself. This isn’t my bread and butter rap setup, which is whatever double-length sling is free. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). Cheers Extendable quickdraws (or alpine draws) are usually made from a 60cm sling and two snap gate carabiners. Apr 28, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. Sure, you could use it as an alpine draw, but what is stopping you from buying a $10 double length runner? That length of cord is perfect for small anchor building, and many other things should you get into an emergency. This differs from climbing slings, which are much longer, and are often tripled up to form “ alpine quickdraws ” that can easily be extended to prevent rope drag. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. Nov 1, 2024 · Quickdraws have a fixed length for sport, I do the same thing but with lots of less shit on my gear loops, and take that alpine draw to clip into the other bolt along with my PAS. , so there's no possible way to know how a Prusik will behave given two arbitrary materials without testing it: there is no rule of thumb besides "test it" and anyone who says otherwise just hasn't come across the cords that make their Yea. Learn how to choose the type you need. 17mm slings also A clove would be more efficient, looking at what is the fastest knot to tie/untie in this application. Sport climbers, too, might find this ideal if the rope goes over sharp angle changes or around aretes. Opposing gates to bolt/rings, then depending on the route a sliding x, or doubled if I want to shorten sling, or double overhand knot in direction of pull for equalization. An alpine draw seems way more versatile, but girth hitching would require less gear. You could do this with a piece of webbing by tying it together to make a loop, but not with the rappel rings. May 18, 2021 · What You Need The ingredients for an alpine draw are simple: 2 wiregate carabiners 1 shoulder-length sling Wiregates tend to be a little more versatile than solid-gate ‘biners because of their lighter weight. Feels like a noob question but I was discussing with a friend. Yes of course I carry a couple of extra slings on mountain routes, doesn't everyone? Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. The 120s are also good for extended gear placements and are also the most common length for equalising sport anchors. Apr 10, 2020 · In reply to Jackscottadair: All mine are made with a tripled shoulder-length slings (alpine draws?) I usually carry 12 for multipitch climbs. If I was using an alpine sling as a personal tether, this method is solid, because it eliminates the need to tie a second knot to extend the tube/plate. Mar 13, 2024 · Carrying How many times have you needed a sling, only to find it inaccessibly draped over your wedged shoulder or hopelessly tangled with six other slings and biners? Rack smart to avoid such bondage. Obviously if there's Keep your quick draws for sport climbing, mixed climbing and bolted anchors, so buy replacement dogbones for them. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Theyre roughly the same price as other dyneema slings, they Extendable draw sling width? Hey all, Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. This article covers carabiner size, shape and gate, as well as sling length and how many quickdraws to have. Thus you avoid the chance of dropping it while whacking out your gear. As I am new to this, just seeking advice in regards to which width is better suited for draws. Abrasion and UV resistant alpine runners ideal for use as extendable quick draw and anchor slings. Apr 23, 2024 · The double-length sling from Metolius I’ve been using is nice, but its extra width means takes up more space on my harness and isn’t as good for long extensions. Is there a particular reason to encircle the dogbone of the original quickdraw with the sling or girth hitching on its side would still be OK? A must for alpine, ice, trad and multi-pitch climbers: The single-strand Alpine Trad Sling offers faster and therefore safer handling than traditional slings. I have 15cm because multiple time I found myself wanting to extand a piece but an alpine draw was too long and the short one where too short, I suppose it depends where you climb. (I leave the racking biner and clip an alpine draw with 2 biners. e. The first option is actually pretty decent if you placed a cam with a racking biner - just extend the alpine draw and clip the sling to the racking biner, then clip both biners to the rope. Nov 1, 2024 · An important distinction is that quickdraws have slings (dogbones) of a fixed length, and are most often used for sport climbing. A dogbone keeps the biners from spinning around. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. If I'm just playing around with putting an alpine draw into tripled form and then extending the normal and correct way by grabbing any random two strands and taking them out of the carabiner and pulling the sling, I can get it to happen approximately once in twenty times or so which seems far less often than what happened on climbs. Personally, I like the DMM Dragons, the little bit of extension can often save using a quickdraw/alpine draw, especially on half ropes. The alpine draw setup works well for a few of your full-length slings, but carrying them all that way consumes valuable harness space. If you want to make longer alpine draws or shorter alpine draws, you can use a different length of sling. g. The Contact Sling wraps up extremely small and I hardly notice it on my harness. I typically use 4 lockers and a double length nylon shoulder sling. I've only used a friend's Big Bros, and as I recall with the standard recommended cord length, you don't need an alpine draw or quick draw attached to it unless it needs to be extended. So I found some cheap quickdraws. An alpine draw is a sling with 2 krabs, so alpine draw with 1 krab is . Using wiregate biners for rope side to prevent to help prevent rope flutter and solidgate keylock biners for the bolt side to prevent snagging seemed like the best mixture of safety and convenience. An alpine draw is a tripled single-length (60 cm) sling with a carabiner on either end. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Then after the master point is made, another 2 lockers. If it's anything like the techweb slings I have, I think I'd find it far too thick and stiff for the usage of a sling of an alpine draw. If safety is your thing, technically wire gates are slightly safer because they are harder to come out when the gate is being pushed down, or something. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. Do you mean clip a tidy alpine draw to the cam thumb loop, or a larks foot around the thumb loop and then have a 60cm sling hanging with the sling crab clipped back to thumb loop? Edelrid Nineteen G + Mammut Contact sling + DMM Alpha Trad Light will give you a super light draw, great sling and the right size biners for each side. This ability to extend the length of the draw offers several advantages: An extended draw can minimize rope drag on longer pitches and allow the climber to place gear farther from the center climbing line with less angle put on the rope; I climb in an area with wandering routes so normally take 5 or 6 alpine draws, 1 or 2 30cm sling draws, one locking draw, and maybe 2 normal draws if it’s a 20m tower. But there are so many choices. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. As others have said, its nice to have a sling or two of tied webbing in order to thread naturals or whatevs. Available in 4 lengths. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. 80 centimeters: An 80 centimeters long sling is perfect for alpine quickdraws and allows the rope to run even more easily. Does the thickness of the alpine draw sling matter? Reply Seff84 • Jul 30, 2018 · You want to avoid having gear dangling below your knees. See full list on climbinghouse. The home of Climbing on reddit. it's lighter than a proper alpine draw, and it's better than using sport-style quickdraws since those tend be so rigid that they transfer every movement of the rope and can unset tenuous placements. Also I often carry an extra 120cm sling or maybe a 180cm. The simplest option is over one shoulder—in my opinion Depends on what you're doing. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Since I began climbing I've done the kind of old school method of 10-12 tripled up single length runners (the number I bring depends on how long the pitches will be/if I'm linking, etc). As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. The sewn sling is attached to each nut via a strop bend, and the sling equalized via a flat overhand at it's lowest point, and the quick link connected over the knot and between each of the two legs on each side of the knot for redundancy. Instead of pulling it over your head and arm, you simply unclip the carabiner and pull the sling from your body. The DMM Dragon cam can extend w the attached dyneema sling, but what if you want to extend it further? Would you attach another sling to the carabiner on the sling? I'm curious to hear your thoughts on girth hitching a sling to a cam vs using an alpine draw. When or if you get into trad climbing buy alpine draws. I have a 6 mm cord joined with double fishermens and I frequently use it as an extra sling or alpine draw when I'm in a bind in addition to a prussik loop for rapping, its very versitile. Next, I do carry two double length slings into alpine draw size (for carrying purpose) on the back of my harness for extras or rescue. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. Although making and removing knots in stiff sling material doesn't sound like fun. Mar 3, 2023 · An alpine draw is constructed using a 60cm sling and two carabiners and can be quickly extended with only one hand by unclipping one or two strands of the sling. just a sling with a krab. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. If I’m climbing a route that doesn’t really wander, I’ll clip directly into the racking carabiner on the cam’s sling. Oct 2, 2009 · I'm interested in what your sling/quickdraw system is. The Alpine Trad Sling uses the same quantity of material as a round sling, but rather than being stitched into a closed ring Jul 11, 2024 · Two of our favorite premade alpine draws are Trango's Phase Alpine and Black Diamond's MiniWire Alpine, but you can easily craft your own alpine draws with two carabiners and a 60 cm (or double-length 120 cm) sling, like these 10 mm Dynex Runners from Black Diamond. I plan right now on only doing single pitch sport climbs. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. you can use these slings to make draws. Its single strand design greatly improves its carryability and ease of use in comparison to a close loop sling. Forget BD. My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. May 4, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Jan 29, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This is my preferred method. After watching I got to thinking - how is that situation any different from a leader taking a fall after clipping a fully extended dyneema alpine draw? Is the rope is absorbing enough force to keep the sling from snapping? Learn how to buy quickdraws. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. Figure Eight used for rigging any number of rappel systems and tensioning guide lines. The difference is that ~1-5m of rope slides (under load) through your draw when you fall, with the potential to cut a lot of nylon (not to mention batmanning back up/trying moves a couple of times) whereas there is almost no movement between the cam sling and the draw - it could maybe cut a couple of fibers of nylon, but not all the way through. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. I don't understand why people use the personal anchor systems. May 2, 2025 · The alpine draw offers both a shorter 12” lenth and a longer length of up to 2’ when fully extended. So it's quick to clip into it with the racking carabiner. With all the slings on alpine quickdraws and cams (I believe I was seeing Dmm cams had slings permanently stitched together around the cam stems) that could get pretty crazy. There won't be anything that necessarily keeps you from using non-stitched nylon webbing for slings but it's definitely not as convenient as a conventional sewn loop made of dyneema/nylon Reply Red_Raven • Additional comment actions Jul 30, 2018 · You want to avoid having gear dangling below your knees. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. A plea to climbing brands worldwide: standardize on a color scheme to distinguish between sling length. I'm a fan of REI for the fact you can basically make a draw of almost any length with a Metolius nylon sling, and a couple of BD Neutrinos, for roughly the same cost as an actual quickdraw. After 7 years of solid use my old spirit draws are nearing the end of their life, so its time for new life! Looking at the Petzl Spirits, Black Diamond Nitron and Dmm Alpha sport. Also, for alpine draws do you reccomend wire gates or the solid gates. I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). I don't find the finger loop on the friends particularly useful, but YMMV. Sep 1, 2023 · We tested climbing slings and runners from Mammut, Black Diamond, Petzl, Sterling and others to find the absolute best An alpine draw is usually made from a double length sling and two carabiners; the sling is doubled up so you're only getting half the length of the sling when you take it off your gear loop, but if you need to extend the placement, you can undo the sling to use the full length. They can be used either as a short draw or fully extended, meaning it's quick and easy to extend your gear to reduce rope drag without carrying extra slings. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? Exactly. You’ll also need this length to create a mobile anchor point around bigger sections of rock. . If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. Does the thickness of the alpine draw sling matter? Reply Seff84 • That and un-doing an alpine draw made of a tied loop of nylon webbing seems like a nightmare. Make sure you maintain a bolt side and a rope side to prevent rope damage. It's simple and easy. They can be a pita to untie after loading, but a thicker nylon sling might be messy to tie in a quickdraw basket. When racking the draws, make sure the biners are opposite&opposed to make this happen in one fluid motion. Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. Triple sling, and I'll extend with a draw or alpine draw if the pieces are spread out. Read on to learn when to use an alpine draw plus how it differs from the trad and sport quickdraws that climbers use. At most ill do 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 6 slings, and a double length sling. Everyone else covered the safety side of why this is stupid, but if you want to keep the rope-side biner in place on a long alpine draw, you can clove hitch it with the sling. Sewn draws are ok for sport but I find their extra stiffness a drawback with trad gear, in addition to their reduced versatility. Usually I carry one shoulder length alpine draw with me, even on dead vertical sport routes, so that I have some flexibility with length when I get to the anchor. For those of you who do use an alpine draw, how do you rack your cams? Do you rack them on one end of the draw? Are your cams grouped on a shared biner, or are each racked on individual biners? Aug 1, 2023 · Most people stick to using shoulder-length slings to create their alpine draws. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • Jul 1, 2025 · Slings designed for alpine pursuits come in 60 centimeters. E. Although the Techweb slings have loosened up some with use, just not a greatly. , if the bolt line is not straight, longer draws can ameliorate some of the drag instead of the rope zig zagging between the bolts, the longer draws will assist; or if the route goes over big roofs the rope will hopefully run a bit smoother. For single length slings (2'), you can either put them over one shoulder (with or w/o 1 carabiner each), or double them up on 2 carabiners each: i. I think this is fine if you're not extending with a draw. I find this makes it super simple to extend (and by the right amount) even with just a single free hand. Right Rear: Alpine draws, nut tool, Rocky Talky. So, how to rack those 60 and 20 cm slings? Answer: the “alpine quick draw”. For sport climbing (especially routes at your limit), quickdraws are the way to go. In its unextended form, it is only a little longer than a long quickdraw and can be used as such. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. in my mind, 2 opposite/opposed wiregates = a locker Nov 1, 2024 · We tested a selection of climbing quickdraws from Petzl, Black Diamond, Edelrid, and more to discover the best models If you’re getting them because of the extendable sling, then you might be disappointed (depending on what and where you’re climbing) I usually end up placing a shoulder runner or alpine draw to extend them anyway. What is your Quickdraw length preference. ) So I think you're correct when you say "for crack climbing" where we're picturing straight vertical cracks. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. 16 normal quick draws and no alpine draws? I perturber by default (unless the route is really straight) carry 6 alpine draws one 30cm danggly draw and many 5 normal quickdraws. Do you carry Quickdraws? How Many? Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag I use quickdraws. I use a mix of 10cm sport draw, alpine draw with 60cm sling and I have also a couple of 15cm draw. although some of these roof scenarios might require an alpine draw / shoulder length sling . I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. Alpine draw sling length reddit Oct 15, 2021 · You now have an alpine draw. Mar 18, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. Sep 25, 2020 · The 60s are great for “alpine quickdraws” and for extended gear placements that have wandered down a crack or off center from the climb. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. You can also grab the dogbone. Alpine draw is made of 60cm sling and locking carabiners, and it is used for linking bolts, equalizing anchors, providing belays, and rigging. For me, its comfort, ease, and I think there IS added benefit. But I feel like it’s fine to have different tools for different objectives? What is the length for a quad length sling. Oct 15, 2021 · Alpine draws are functional, versatile pieces of rock climbing equipment consisting of two carabiners joined by a sling or webbed textile material. If I need to extend or the route wanders, I clip an alpine draw into the cam’s sling (so the racking biner is just chilling next to it). Carabiners are not included with Alpine Runners. For “alpine” draws, climbers usually opt for a thin sling that can be doubled over to produce a draw that is just under 18 centimeters, making the full length optional as needed. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your 4 lockers, (2 in the hard points for contraversial harness setup) 1 alpine draw on a 240cm sling, 3 prussiks, (2 5mm and 1 6 or 7mm) 2 nonlockers, 1 or 2 pulleys, 1 5ft untied runner, 1 12 foot chest harness runner, 1 15ft untied runner, belay device, 1 rap ring, 1 PAS, and 1 set of texas kickers with 1 purcell extendable anchor. The BD only comes in 12cm and the alpha seems to only come in 12cm in Canada. They can be made of skinny Dyneema or nylon, but Dyneema (and equivalents Dynex and Spectra) is a lot more popular as it allows a single-length sling to be made into an alpine draw – that is a tripled single-length sling with a carabiner on either end. I wanted to get Solid/wire mixed quickdraws at 17mm. girth hitch the alpine sling to my belay loop and use the 2 biners from the alpine draw as opposite and opposed. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Cordalette is fine, but goddamn do I hate recoiling it. One for "mission critical" placements uses a pair of ultralight lockers. However, I find it really painful to clip the cam's sling when there is a taped 'biner on the end. evle fiihbj cemu gwpzz wtn xfqzv zebkdz lyf myj awpqkk