Belaying someone heavier. 40-50 lbs heavier than me I can manage, but I do get some air. Warning: DO NOT get the Freino Z unless you need it for a specific and more specialized descent device that cavers and canyoneers would be Almost a 100lb difference. Can also try an assisted breaking resistor if you’re a small light person and consistently belaying heavier climbers. Can You Belay Someone Heavier Than You? The short answer to this common inquiry is: Yes, you clearly can belay someone heavier than your top rope. Belaying a heavy climber A quick search didn't reveal any results, so apologies if I missed something. You need to pull the rope gently, you can't yank on it. Although this phenomenon is disconcerting at first, it can be perfectly safe with a few simple precautions—and it provides a nice, soft catch for the climber. Find out how here. So my father who was like 70 pounds heavier, I would basically lower him down with a reverse belay technique. It is the simplest belay device. If you’re just in the process of pulling up, and belaying someone a little heavier, it seems way less safe then the other way around Nov 22, 2021 · How do Belay people become heavier? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. Oct 4, 2018 · I hope you have enjoyed learning more about how to belay with tips on belaying a heavier climber. Weight differences between climber and belayer can lead to dangerous situations in climbing. I use a DMM bug which is fine on the thick indoor top ropes and when belaying someone of similar weight (or a couple of stone heavier)on my 10. When clipped to the first bolt or placement, the Ohm increases rope friction so belayers don't fly in the air when the climber falls or lowers. This isn’t the beach. I don’t think there’s a major difference in the way that I belay people heavier or lighter climbers; it’s just a matter of technique and preparedness if they fall. The farther out you are, the greater the chance that you will reflexively let go of the belay to grab something to stop your slide. Then slide the other. As a light belayer all you need to do is hold the rope and stand under the first clip, its only when you're heavy do you need to worry about dynamic catches. Lack of attention is a leading cause of belay accidents. No description has been added to this video. Sep 1, 2023 · Knowing what to do when Lead belaying with a heavier climber is extremally important for the safety of you, and your climber. With the physics of lead climbing it’s the weight difference that is most important, not percentages. Jun 26, 2023 · One of the critical aspects that make rock climbing safe and enjoyable is the practice of belaying. 29 likes, 4 comments - verticalnetwork_coach on June 16, 2025: "Belaying +30kg? Try These 3 Tricks! 💡 Ever struggled to belay someone much heavier than you? Here are 3 real-life options to stay in control – tested with a +30kg weight difference. That put me out of action for 5 months! I’ve used an ohm since when climbing indoors or sport climbing outdoors when there’s a significant weight difference. When belaying people much heavier I actually brace as opposed to try to give a soft catch (sometimes I drop below 64kg making the weight difference really big). This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they fall. When belaying, stand directly under the first bolt. Learn how to give a good catch. A helmet is another important piece of equipment for belaying heavy climbers. Nov 22, 2021 · How heavy do you have to be to belay someone? This is my primary recommendation for those of you belaying climbers who are A LOT heavier than you – think 50lbs or more. Slide one hand down, grip the brake rope firmly, and feed that back into the device. Feb 2, 2025 · Belaying a heavier partner can be risky but there are ways to mitigate the risk. Many climbers at my gym use one when it’s male / female pairings. You will get better at judging how far people fall with a certain amount of slack and it becomes intuitive. But that’s where you’d be wrong. Wear gloves when belaying. Between these two devices, which do you prefer? I have tried the Smart and liked it but thought feeding rope while lowering was a bit fiddly. We’re hitting Skaha this weekend, and said partner would like to try Can you belay a heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Aug 29, 2021 · Can you belay someone heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. In top-rope belaying, if there are small weight differences (around 50lbs or less) between you and your It's right at home when belaying someone heavier than you or when your forearms are bumpin from the route you just spent 10 minutes sending and your partner wants an immediate go to show you a "different way". Aug 15, 2023 · Belaying someone smaller than you requires making the concerted effort to jump at just the right time so that there’s enough slack in the rope to catch them softly. You will not get pulled up to the very top of the climb if your climber falls. Aug 17, 2017 · When belaying someone heavier than me, I usually ask someone to act as my anchor, but I was wondering if it would ever be possible to be pulled over the lever/have my climber fall to the ground if they were to suddenly fall. Just as you want your partner to take good care of you, knowing how to belay more safely is absolutely critical in this sport. . I would love to hear your thoughts or if you have additional questions, please leave me your comments below. Difference in weight shouldn't matter - good belaying is good belaying. If the climber is heavier than you, you could secure a knot to a ground anchor. Now when i`m climbing I like to feel I`m being watched by the belayer and they are following my moves and paying rope out accordingly. As i`m a bit of a climbing slag i`ve climbed with quite a lot of people, the majoriy of them highly experienced. Being belayed as a heavier climber, seems to get you a soft catch by default. I was at the gym with some ppl from here, and I was belaying someone heavier than me (with no anchor no less) and when he was rappelling, there was a little slack and I flew up in the air. I've not tried the Belaying is one of the most important skills a climber can learn, and it’s essential for keeping yourself and your partner safe while climbing. If you tie yourself to the ground, it minimizes the problems mentioned above as you cannot move when the climber falls. Wearing a helmet, such as the PETZL Vertex Vent, is important to protect the head. If you agree to belay, you are taking someone else’s life into your hands. ️ Option 1: Counterweight ️ Option 2: Rope twist ️ Option 3: Ohm or similar brake booster 🎯 Learn to belay smarter, not harder. The rope does not act like a playground seesaw. You can go to a bouldering gym Lock the system by securing a stopper knot in the rope’s end; this way, this end of your rope will not completely pass through the belaying gadget, letting you fall off. Worry no more though as I’ve got your back with these 10 tips for safer belaying. The advantage of this device is when you are belaying someone light like a child. As someone who is heavier, I know firsthand how your boyfriend feels. If you think tieing yourself down will be a detriment to your friends mental state, I’ve suggest foregoing roped climbing for awhile and bouldering together instead. At what sort of weight difference is a soft catch no longer a concern since you will give one automatically. more Oct 2, 2022 · Can you belay someone heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. See #1 to remove this problem. If someone tries to strike up a conversation, say, “I can’t talk while I’m belaying, talk to you after he finishes. It sounds like you're talking about climbing in a gym. The OHM still enables smooth paying out and taking in rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling. I generally stay within 50 lbs of my climbing partners. In our gym only folks who have been signed off on by the staff can lead they have a nice bright yellow tag on their harness. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. What are some strategies for belaying someone significantly heavier than you on top rope? There's probably a 70 pound difference. Then again, I have been told that I am often too blunt. —The spur acts as a redirect point when belaying a second from above. No friction. This device doesn't interfere with rope handling whether it's the lead Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Apr 18, 2025 · Edelrid's Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor is unlike anything the climbing community has seen before, and it drastically increases safety for lighter belayers and heavier climbers. Obviously the heavier can belay the lighter people but how do we catch a fall or lower the 18st climber? Edit:bit of clarity needed It's definitely worth trying again. Let’s learn more! If possible, try to lead climb with people who are of a similar weight if possible (25 lbs. It can be frustrating sometimes and at some points, it feels like I can't trust my belaying partner cause I'm slowly being lowered. When you start to belay a lead climber you need to have someone with experience close at hand, backing you up. Jun 30, 2023 · You have to know how to top rope and lead belay if you want to keep yourself and your partner safe while rock climbing. Don't "brace" - let yourself be pulled up. May 13, 2009 · To be honest, I think belaying can be much more safely taught if you involve a third person; that way the novice belayer is always being watched and coached, and a second pair of hands can be kept on the dead rope just in case they fluff it completely. Top rope climbing is a lot safer than lead climbing when it comes to belaying, as you usually never take an uncontrolled fall. Multi-Pitch Belaying With a Half Rope For multi-pitch climbing, you will often need a half rope. Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners Searchfor Even with the Ohm I’d be hesitant to lead belay someone that much heavier than you. Countermeasures should be taken to avoid possible injuries if th Sep 13, 2015 · My experience as a heavier climber has been that I need to be on the ball to give a soft catch. This article will answer the question, what is belaying? It will stress how important belaying is in rock climbing – how it is the most important skill in roped climbing – followed by a step-by-step guide on how to belay safely. While it’s not possible to completely remove all the risks of belaying a heavier partner, there are some things you can do to minimize them. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. You might think if you’re down at the bottom, it doesn’t matter what kind of shoes you wear. I am quite light (~55 kg) and frequently belay people heavier than I am. If I'm climbing with a belayer I don't know well, then I'm certainly more wary with somebody heavier than with somebody lighter. ” Similarly, avoid asking questions of someone who is belaying or climbing. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable belaying someone significantly heavier than me, and I surely wouldn't allow a stranger to belay me. As for using the ohm, you can simply say you don’t like getting pulled up and feel you have better control catching Sep 20, 2021 · These devices are especially useful when you are belaying someone on a project (a route that is very difficult for the climber) and catching lots of falls. Beyond that I want an edelrid ohm or a sandbag. Frankly, just tell him you do not feel safe belaying, both for his sake and yours and that he should find another belayer. My rope goes through the device loads easier making it harder to lower and hold a falling a The only recommendations i would have would be to anchor yourself to the ground if you are belaying someone much heavier than you and/or use a stick-clip if possible for the first one or two bolts. With aid I’ve belayed someone about 100lbs heavier than me. Outdoor toprope - belaying much heavier person Hello all, My fiancee and I are looking to do some outdoor top rope climbing, but she is much lighter than me and would prefer to have a heavy sandbag with us to weigh her down while belaying me like we do in the gym. Because of the Ohm I actually prefer belaying someone heavier on lead rather than top rope. My rope goes through the device loads easier making it harder to lower and hold a falling a Otoh I know some guys who are even heavier, but I have complete faith in their belaying because I know they practice a lot and have good technique. I've been finding that when i'm belaying a leading climber who is quite a bit heavier than me my belay device doesn't seem to have enough friction. I struggled a bit the first time we did this I don't think it's irresponsible to belay someone much heavier than you, but it does require more attention to safety. Do you need a partner to rock climb? Second, you don’t need a partner. Using protective gear when belaying is good practice, whether or not you’re belaying someone who is heavier than you. 0 or the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. The idea of belaying someone heavier than you is that you would need to have more rope friction. This is definitely possible to achieve, by all means! Full rope climbing is a bunch more secure than lead climbing in comparison to belaying, as you generally never take an unchecked slide. But it's possible to do. Cleanup your belay zone There are many things May 27, 2003 · On a lead fall the forces will be much greater, which is why it makes a lot of sense to anchor yourself to the ground if belaying someone much heavier so that the belay (not you) takes any force if they fall off. Climber much heavier than belayer. Besides, this anchor comes in handy when you have to belay under less-than-ideal conditions or where there’s an obstacle between the wall and Basically, two people are belaying instead of just one but this can lead to some difficulties. Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. Jul 19, 2022 · If you are belaying away from the base and are not anchored, you may be yanked or dragged toward the cliff, increasing the length of the lead fall. Knowing how to belay well can help keep your partner safe and inspire them to climb at their best. Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. It will focus on top rope belaying, but what you’ll be reading is largely transferable to lead belaying. How do you belay someone bigger than you? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. My question for you all is: Would you recommend this sandbag method for outdoor Lots of good responses re. It's also important to note that the heavier climber needs to be good at it to avoid giving the lighter one hard catches. It is easier to lower with less friction in the belay device. Have him use an auto-locking belay device such as a Petzl GriGri and make sure he's anchoring in the gym. I am thinking of purchasing an assisted braking belay device - either the Mammut Smart 2. Jan 13, 2021 · A: The first thing I try to let belayers know about belaying someone heavier than you is that it is not necessarily a bad thing if you get pulled off the ground. Can I belay someone heavier than me? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. They are also great if your climber calls “Take!”, because with proper belay technique no extra slack can pass through the device. Wear sturdy, closed-toed shoes when belaying a heavier climber. May 23, 2025 · In reply to cacheson: I badly damaged my foot when belaying a heavier climber (20kg diff) indoors when I slammed into the wall and caught the top of my foot on a projecting hold. Dec 1, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The Complete Guide to Dynamic Belaying in Rock Climbing. difference or less ideally) If you do not have the option of finding someone within your weight range, try to find sandbags or something heavy to anchor yourself with indoors or a fixed anchor outdoors. Make sure the first bolt is above you not in front of you. You want some slack to the ground from the belayer. It is important for every rock climber to be able to perform a soft catch, but doing this with perfection is what is required when belaying someone heavier than you. Mostly indoor and single pitch outdoor. For many new climbers who start out with friends showing them the ropes (excuse the pun) the topic of weight difference between the belayer and climber is probably missed. However a couple of my partners have asked me when belaying to leave quite a loop of free rope when belaying them. A good belayer will pay constant attention to the climber, watching for upward movement so they can pay the rope out at the right time. As a heavy climber and someone who sometimes belays heavier climbers than me I say embrace getting lifted up a little, it’s a bit uncomfortable but there’s nothing wrong with coming close to the wall, kicking it and lowering from there, you might end up a bit like you are laying back, that’s ok. Buy an ATC guide or XP if you are worried about heavy climbers pulling rope through. When I was younger and was belaying my father, I would do a hand slide technique basically. Nov 18, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Lowering takes a little time to learn smoothly as you can't feel it as much as an ATC but you catch on pretty quick. If you anchor the belayer to the ground, be very careful because a sudden fall can cause injury to the belayer if the force is great enough. Dec 15, 2020 · About to take the belay test at the gym but not sure where to start? Relax. However, generally, climbers are similar weights and thus an assisted braking device is preferable, taking some of the work from the belayer. Jul 7, 2017 · In the event of a fall, the OHM increases rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier partner without being suddenly pulled off the ground and thrown against the wall. In this REI Expert Advice video, we demonstrate how to —The spur helps to add friction when belaying someone heavier or when rappelling a single line. Study with Quizlet and memorize flashcards containing terms like Basic Safety System (Top Rope), Top Rope gear (5), Top Rope Human and more. Learn how to give a Soft Catch with Dynamic Belaying Techniques and Prevent Common Injuries from Roc The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. Me and 2 friends are about to move from bouldering to top rope climbing, but we are all different weights, one of us is 11st one is 14st and one is 18st. You have to belay dynamically, read your climber, anticipate and give them as soft a fall as possible. I know plenty others that simply say they’re not comfortable belaying someone so much heavier. That’s Dec 28, 2022 · Don’t talk to anyone when you are belaying. Dec 10, 2019 · This can also be beneficial if belaying someone who is much lighter than you (a parent and child, for example). It's right at home when belaying someone heavier than you or when your forearms are bumpin from the route you just spent 10 minutes sending and your partner wants an immediate go to show you a "different way". 1. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. How do you reduce belaying? Lowering Feb 9, 2020 · Belaying far from the base of the climb is an invitation to be thrown forcefully into the rock wall while catching a fall. Reply reply bearbreeder • How do belay people become heavier? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. It's something that's constantly on my mind whilst belaying. Disadvantages: Its expensive. Because of the less friction, it is also a disadvantage when you are belaying someone who is much heavier. If belaying or being belayed by someone heavier (or vice versa), for greater comfort and safety, you can opt for the OHM quickdraw: In the event of a fall, this device increases rope friction, enabling a lighter belayer to better hold a heavier climber. Stand directly under the first anchor. Does your belayer usually pick up on your signals that you're going to clip? Feb 14, 2009 · Careful which belay device you choose - I had an ATC which was fine most of the time, but on one occasion when I was belaying someone much bigger than me, it was awfully difficult to hold him when he fell! I really had to hold the rope tight in order to avoid dropping him. How do you climb outdoor leads? Nov 22, 2021 · Is it safe to belay someone heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. I need some advice regarding belaying someone about 100lbs heavier than I am. On the other hand, belaying someone larger means sinking down into the ground as they fall so there’s not too much slack in the system. 👉 There is a big difference between belaying someone on a top rope and belaying a lead climber. Is top rope the same as belay? In top-rope climbing most of the rope is initially running up the wall or cliff to a top anchor Are you giving your partner the belay they deserve? Whether you're in the gym, at the crag, or in the mountains, belaying is one of the most important and universal skills a climber can have Apr 21, 2006 · A heavy person belaying a heavy person has to hold the same force as a light person belaying a heavy person, so like everyone has said; weight is irrelevant and it's all about the device and correct technique and the only condiseration is that a lighter person is more likely to be lifted further off the ground without an anchor. Edit: Just a thought, if belaying someone heavier than you still scares you look into purchasing an Ohm! I use them when someone is 60lbs or heavier than me and it helps a lot. As a beginner concerned with safety and also knowing I will probably be belaying people heavier than me (something that is less of an issue with indoor top roping), what do people recommend? A clever and simple solution to the problems experienced by a light climbing partner belaying someone significantly heavier, which can lead to the heavier person decking it and/or the lighter person being whacked into the wall. What are your ideas and solutions for this problem? Are you taking it in consideration when belaying someone? Have you had a heavier belayer snap you into the wall and have to school him on soft catches? Are any of you considering buying the Edelrid Ohm to overcome this? Once upon a time, we just anchored our belayers, all the time, even outdoors. Belaying is not just a technique; it's a lifeline. It was designed for soft belaying and to avoid rope drag when quickly pulling up rope in tricky crux situations - our testers say ZÆD feels like belaying / being belayed by a climber of the same Sep 27, 2022 · When belaying someone heavier than you, it is also a good idea to wear a sandbag as extra weight. Jun 15, 2012 · People whose partners outweigh them by 25 pounds or more routinely get yanked off the ground when catching sport-climbing leader falls. But they provide a mechanical advantage which I find useful especially when belaying people who are heavier than I (aka everyone pretty much) The problem is not the Gri Gri its the people using it incorrectly. Read more about it in detail in this post. 2mm rope. Just sit back and enjoy the definitive guide on how to belay. Talking to another chap I know Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. Aug 29, 2021 · Can you belay someone heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. I've been caught by lighter belayers with no problem, but they do go for a ride. I don’t want to scare you, but if you don’t know what you’re doing, you can inadvertently cause them to suffer a serious injury. Head injuries can be debilitating and can put a climber out of commission. I dunno if there is any proven statistic or ratio, but I would not want to belay with that much of a difference. In this article, we’ll teach you everything you need to know about belaying, from the basics to more advanced techniques. I (64kg) often climb with heavier people (84-89kg). The more friction you have, the more things you have working on your side when belaying someone heavier than yourself. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of the system, you need to give the leader slack as he or she climbs. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated! Happy climbing~ The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. the lighter climbing belaying the heavier. It pays to not have a huge weight difference; if your climber is much heavier than you, then a fall might lift you very high, sometimes into the first piece of protection. xclw kyijkz bjbezav ipmk osre ezzw wrpqa ibzsk bwe gawkias
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