Hangboard reddit. If you can't go to the gym, and you can't get on rock.
Hangboard reddit. tensionclimbing. The portability obviously improves is the hangboard is smaller but for me 80mm would be the max to still have a portable hangboard that fits into a backpack for example. Sharing some hangboard training routines for every level English is not my first language, excuse me for any typos or mistakes. Is training on a portable hangboard as effective as a fixed hangboard in matter of finger strength? Even if a portable hangboard feels "harder", I believe a fixed hangboard has more specificity and you can better isolate finger strength from let's say core and stability. I'm looking to buy my first hangboard, to complement the gym sessions that I have access to twice a week. The purpose of a hangboard is to track measurable improvement over time using a consistent workout routine. Beginner Hangboard Warm-up Routine: Goldilocks problem 馃Ц馃ィ What's an example of a simple hang board routine (< 10-15 mins, supports progressive difficulty, no periodisation) that is a good warm-up before climbing? Everything I try ends up being too hard or too easy (i. 18 mm campus rung and a good set of weights + pulley setup will do better than any fancy hangboard imo. If the max edge is 40mm and the backboard is 20mm that results in a total thickness of 60mm. A hangboard is easy on the movement apparatus, so it doesn't get trained as much as your finger strength. And you can't simply say that hangboard loading is controlled vs climbing loads being less controlled = adding hangboard safer than not adding hangboard (this ignores the reality of how hangboards are used, sports science on isolation loading of structures with weak or non existent perceptional feedback systems, real world behavior, coached vs So while a hangboard will build muscle strength, it also has the tendency to cause injuries, especially for those who aren't used to climbing quite yet. The first is the Eva Lopez style, where you do a very low volume of hangs with a lot of rest (like 3 mintues rest between each 10 second hang at the start), and the more classic one of many sets of 6 or so 10 second hangs with 5 seconds rest between them. Generally, I think you're on the right track with trying a hangboard routine. you might as well hangboard. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on using a standard pull up bar for hangboard training? I know this sounds a bit silly… Its a pretty simple design and you could easily make a board with some door frame, but If anyone has the luxery of a 3d printer at their university they could print this bad boy out ez pz, and drill it in. Take your climbing to the next level with top picks from Beastmaker, Metolius, and more. I can now max hang on a 30mm edge for 7 seconds and on a 25mm edge for 2 I hangboard everyday because quarantine, don't see any issues and am getting stronger. Hey all! I recently moved a few states over for college and as such I don’t have access to a hangboard anymore (my school’s climbing gym doesn’t have one). Stronger != Better (in fact, long run it can make you climb WORSE). Just got a pretty horrific ankle injury falling off a slab (torn ligaments, fracture) I'm going to buy a hangboard to keep me ticking over whilst i rehab. To specify a bit more, we're mainly saying hangboard is not a good idea now because you can climb and get better finger work doing climbs than using hangboard. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best cice1234 • I am starting to hangboard, and I am kind of stuck between 2 styles of hangboarding routine. Hangboard on those weeks you can only go once or twice to the gym/crag. Generally new climbers benefit from learning how to climb and move which takes a lot of practice. com/product/simple-board/ (I have the J2015 pair) for one arm hangs. To all of you who want to build a adjustable hangboard like the one in the picture: 1 rotation of a (Metric) M6 screw is 1 Millimeter. Is there anything I can do to train my fingers without . My only feedback would be to maybe widen the holds a little. So there's a tradeoff that is usually better served by not hangboarding so you can climb more. You got this. I am about a v6 climber. in terms of cost, maybe less than 20 dollars? i have a modular flashboard design in for warming up outdoors, so its a fun project and potentially useful if you can print it out. Hangboard training progression is so unique to the invidividual. So if you are looking to get max strength, but get your other volume from climbing, you could only do like 3x5 second max hangs twice or once a week. 5-10 degrees should be plenty. Yeah that was a point of frustration for me. Every good hangboard needs: A jug or deep edge for warming up (50 mm) A 20 mm edge Extra edges for future development (anywhere between 10 and 30 mm) Try to include a slight incut on these edges. Thanks! Trying to mount this hangboard on the area above the rod, but after talking to my building manager I found out that there are no studs there. Adding hangboarding to your current volume Reddit's rock climbing training community. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Screw a piece of plywood to the studs that are there and then attach the hangboard to that. I was fairly consistent to begin with, but 10 days after starting, I just… 'Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years', Emil following up on his previous video The total hangboard volume depends on your climbing volume, the type of climbing, individual ability to recover etc. Or make one: you only need a 30mm and 20mm edge. Now that I can't climb in the gym cause of COVID I have decided to make my own hang board. Ideally it would be usable for fingerboarding and general bodyweight exercises with a variety of grips. Hangboards that will hang on door frame? What's my best option for getting a hangboard if I just want to use it above a door frame? It seems like most of the ones I have seen require drilling into posts in the wall. Best edges would be 24, 18, 14 and maybe 7 18 mm would be the best edge i think (and some other people) And actually today i made a hangboard with 18 mm edges all with different radiuses. Beginners should not hangboard because a reasonable volume of climbing maximizes their adaptive potential. Personally I'd go with a hangboard because you can use the jugs on it for a pull-up that won't be much harder than on a dedicated pull-up bar, and a dedicated pull-up bar just isn't that helpful for climbing progression. I did that for about 9 months before I started hanging before climbing. I don't have anywhere i can hang directly from the wall so I'm looking at door mounts and the fricticious mount looks like a good option. My 2 cents? Get them to get you a gift certificate for rockcreek. Many really strong climbers do hard bouldering, campusboarding, and hangboarding for multiple days in a row. Buy a hangboard. Pull Ups on a bar vs hangboard I lately discovered that my ability to pull hard is very different from a bar to a hangboard. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Hangboarda are for maximum isometric contractions. I think reason for the space on either side is to keep you arms, shoulder, and elbows from hitting the door/wall on the sides. Indoor gym climbing will not really stimulate finger strength improvement, especially at lower grades. Tried the three mentioned above, and they're all pretty good for portable ones. I have room for 4 different sized edges. Wood hangboard conditioning So typically I hangboard at the local gym. Easy free standing hangboard So I had been looking for a while for an easy, and somewhat inexpensive way to make a free standing hangboard setup. Most "Beginner" hangboard programs start at 5. It sound to me like you could use mental trainig more than physical training. 11+ or V5 ish, NOT 5. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. You want it to be the thinnest edge you can hang on for 13-15 seconds with an open grip. A while ago, I finished a series of three consecutive hangboard finger strength training cycles. I'm also very young so maybe less injuries Reply reply JayOrRed • Hangboard repeaters on a large edge, progressively smaller edge and more max hang style until I'm recruited. )--leaving aside other aspects of my training routine. If you’re stronger, hangboarding on a climbing day, before climbing, is fine. Most hangboard info on this sub is focused on high-intensity work such as repeaters and max hangs, so I wondered others' thoughts on this. So why is hangboarding known as this common injury issue? And how is it prevented generally? This question is a can of worms. You can hangboard as a new climber just you can't climb as much as you do currently. I have been climbing for about 10 months and can climb V2-V3ish and 5. And to answer your question: Yes, you can just screw a board onto a backboard and attach it to a door frame The hangboard I'm thinking of getting (would love some feedback on this): Monolith Hangboard Current lift maxes: 180 Overhead press max Pullups +25 lbs x 10 285 bench max Background: I am a 23-year-old climber with a powerlifting/strongman background. If there was a feature that generated workouts based on your previous sessions would you be more likely to use it? Anyway, my question is: is this normal? I've been doing the 2x daily Emil Abrahamsson hangboard protocol for the last month (except only once daily, and not on climbing days) to help improve recruit these muscles since any more intense protocol is too difficult and I end up needing to use jugs to complete the reps/sets. Designed and printed a one hand portable hangboard with 25mm and 10mm rungs after seeing so many $90 laser cut plywood hangboards online. I'm the resident "you don't need to hangboard yet, and yes it's theoretically safe but practically hard to do safely (because of so many reasons), and you'll get enough stimulus from climbing" guy. And can be used for weighted hangs potentially (not my 419 votes, 40 comments. Sadly this is the only area I have for this (my apartment is tiny). No hang vs. Super excited and willing to improve. hangboarding weights - what are your weighted numbers? Do they correlate with each other? Please also include climbing level and bodyweight. 9 - 5. Of course, if you hangboard a bunch as a new climber than climb right after you will increase injury risk. I want to buy a hangboard so that I can work on my strength and grip. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. Nov 14, 2023 路 A common question on platforms like Reddit is, “How often should I hangboard?” The answer varies based on experience, but a good rule of thumb is 2-3 times per week, allowing for rest days in between. 213 votes, 44 comments. Then a couple actual max hangs. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Apart from that, I think that could be a great product. The home of Climbing on reddit. I think if, for example, Beastmaker or Metolius came out with a Reddit's rock climbing training community. Do you guys have any experience with using a Clevo door hangboard? I wanna buy one, but im afraid it will damage the rim of the door. See full list on outdoorgearlab. I looked around the internet for a while, and couldn't find anything. For most people it’s best to only hangboard (max hangs) on non-climbing days, assuming you also don’t climb the day before or after hangboarding. Basically all door frames will have a header and at least a couple cripple studs above the door and studs on either side. com Jan 9, 2025 路 But if you really want hangboard, just get a pull-up bar and hang your board (like the picture in the comment above) or if you don’t mind drilling on your wall, put it above your doorframe. I hope you find this useful for you. One thing to note is that many rehab protocols involve high-volume, low-intensity exercises which is exactly what that protocol does. I searched the subreddit for a similar thread but I didn't come up with anything. One can never stress enough how having healthy fingers is valuable, to stay away from injuries, be able to pull harder, etc There are people who never train with hangboard (like adam ondra, chris sharma) that are able to climb 9a+ and others like alex megos and dan beall who train with it and are able to climb very high grades. I think this setup is fine especially if you are using added weight but its hard to tell the depth/scale of the holds in this picture. Stability generally translates to better isolation, higher loads, and repeatability. That said, portable/hanging boards have gotten pretty good. Before starting a hangboard program read Dave MacLeod's book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. My goal was to see how much I could progress with strength training before I'd reach a plateau. Assuming you have the time to climb as much as you want and can, why would you spend time hangboarding as opposed to just climbing crimpy routes? If we need to hangboard for progression 85 votes, 54 comments. The hangboard came with some plastic anchors, but I'm not sure if these will be able to hold my weight. With lockdown round 2, we've got nothing to do but hangboard! This sparked me to build a free standing hangboard setup in the basement with a little secret sauce. May 10, 2022 路 Discover the best portable hangboards for 2025 with our analysis to pick the most suitable model. Goldilocks problem). The wall abobe the ddoorframe has no studs. I rent, so I didn't to drill holes to hang it above a door frame. Queue buying a set of Tension simple board edges since I've loved the old Tension grindstone at the gym. Very curious how they correlate. Has anybody had any luck mounting a hangboard in their apartment? I am thinking about drilling some holes in the wall to mount it and then covering… I think there's a reason why fixed hangboard predominate: they work better than all other options for the most people and the most training situations. This gives me the ability to change to different boards quite easily for different hold training Always crimping is a bad habit anyway, but it might just turn out that you're stronger on other grip types, who knows. Being strong just means you get to suck on slightly higher grades, but won't make you a better climber. I've been climbing for 1yr, 5Vs, decent shape, only hangboard trained for like a month, and prefer 25mm for 20-30sec holds vs 20mm for 7sec since it hurts way less. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. 767 votes, 47 comments. Therefor, I've tried to make summaries for the most popular hangboard protocols, in an attempt to make it more digestible for climbers less familiar with them. Eventually the idea popped into my head to use sawhorse brackets. I’ve been doing a lot of outdoor bouldering & while my upper body strength and core feel pretty great, I’ve noticed my fingers haven’t really been able to keep up. As you can see in the picture all of the doorframes in our house have windows above them instead of walls so mounting a hangboard there is impossible. The only suggestion I have is get a wood one, it’s much kinder on the skin. Reddit's rock climbing training community. So long as you get on the hangboard with your weight properly centered, there is no struggle with the angle, but when you initially lift weights with a no-hang device, there would seem to be some wiggle as it shifts from stationary to its balanced position. Edit: Also grindstone pro In that case, warm-up on some easy stuff, go into flash territory, and then do your hangboard workout when you feel ready. Hi Y'all TL;DR: What's the best portable hangboard/finger trainer that can be used at hotels. Reply reply Whateve42 • Thanks Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years (youtube. They are amazing for warming up at the crag. lol I'm relatively new to climbing, I'm at about a year now. *Feel free to DM me Reddit's rock climbing training community. Mar 28, 2020 路 Just get a backing board, mount it to the studs, then you can mount your Rock Prodigy anywhere on the board. I find a lot app provide pre-set workouts that just don't make sense. Thingiverse object 4264208 If any of you masochists want a more heinous version with like 2mm sloped rungs let me know and I can put together a different version. This is because you fatigue the structures than ask them to engage quickly. I don't recall the Looking for hang boards that I don't need to drill into walls? : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit Is there a hangboard (alternative) that does not require drilling a hole in the wall in order to setup? I have recently gotten into climbing (few months). Hang board recs : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit My only piece of feedback would be to make sure the hangboard itself doesn't hang too low. Strung with 6mm cordalette, usable with body weight or resistance bands. I was just wondering what are some good edge sizes for my hangboard. 205 votes, 98 comments. May 23, 2024 路 Hangboard Training: What is a Hangboard and How Do You Use it? Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. May 15, 2023 路 If you’re totally new to climbing or feel intimidated by high-intensity hangboard protocols, Emil’s protocol is a virtually risk-free way to build confidence with fingerboarding positions, allowing you to start with as low of an intensity as you want with no extra gear required. If you find any -and you will-, tell me so I can edit it. com) Edit : for context, I'm a v10 climber and I trained numerous times on the fingerboards up to +45 lbs on 6mm edges. So I’m staying in a flat where drilling is not an option and was looking for a good portable hangboard to assist with training. e. MembersOnline • Paul513Journey ADMIN MOD Free standing Hangboard with changeable boards So I am looking to build a free standing hangboard, but rather then screw the board straight into this I want to mount them onto their own boards that I can hang over the top of the free standing board. The absolute best hangboard on the planet is a piece of wood nailed to a doorway. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Do you think training slopers is worth it? Mounting a hangboard on a doorframe (no studs in wall) We are wanting to mount our beastmaster hangboard above our doorframe. Also, contact strength is trained by campus boarding. Mostly just wondering if the better holds on your average hangboard are alright for doing lots of regular pull ups. 10a struggle bus. Slopers on hangboard? So I'm using two different size slopers on my hangboard and I seem to fail more because of slickness instead of how hard it is. Hi all, I've been lurking for about a year and am familiar with the wiki, but I haven't yet been able to find a post where people weigh-in (ha!) on the whether it's viable to hangboard exclusively un-fixed edges (e. We do have the space to mount it on a wall but I don't know if there's an easy way to do that? I've also seen setups in corners but that seems a little impractical. You could paint it white or to match your wall color if you don't want the plywood to be noticeable. Does anyone have any recommendations? first hangboard: what to buy? Hey all. Hanging with a narrow grip feels unnatural Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’ve been climbing on and off for a couple years but now that my schedule has become much freer, I’m thinking of really getting into climbing and investing in a hangboard. com or moosejaw. What do you guys think? I am trying to choose my first hangboard at home! I have been climbing for a long time but have never gotten one. All this is done while I stretch/do other warm up stuff. Hangboard Repeaters Interval Timing - Choose what works! Hey all, Maybe this isn't news to anyone (haven't been on this sub in a while) but I want to share a story about how adjusting my repeaters protocol has enabled me to to use the hangboard more effectively and consistently lately. The Rungne one is kinda shit, would rather get something made out of wood, like the portable Tension/Metolius or Puc ones. My current powerlifting training Hangboard protocol summaries Hey! Whilst doing a lot of research on hangboarding and hangboard protocols, I've found it can get kind of overwhelming. I'd buy the beastmaker 2k and be done with it. com, or if you have a local climbing store or climbing gym with a decent pro shop, get a certificate to that. With the whole covid jazz I am now looking at doing this at home. Just drywall. If you can't go to the gym, and you can't get on rock. 10ish. Fingerstrength takes time and is acquired slowly by climbing harder things. blocks, portable rails, etc. Simply because all the holds are going to be jugs. Based on some quick youtube research (emil abrahamsson, stefano ghisolfi), it seems that no hang numbers tend to be higher than hangboard numbers. Many people seem to use hangboard routines as replacements for a climbing day to just train finger strength, but I always hangboard after a full climbing session to fully exhaust my fingers. It's very important to consider Reddit's rock climbing training community. I am very much able to do 20+ pull ups on a bar and my 2R max is about +45kg, whereas I am hardly able to do 5 pull ups on a 20mm edge (max hangs are also not too bad ~+25kg/10s). I have just finished the 30 day hangboard routine. It looks like the best place to hang it might be on the other side of the wall in your picture. Our house is a new build (less than a year old if that makes any difference). Back to climbing you'll be able to cling to holds in positions that are hard on the movement apparatus a you will injure your fingers. g. Probably going to mount it off a pull up bar on a doorframe. Youre going to buy 1 hangboard (hopefully) for life, and the more comfy it is the more youll use it (motivation + skin damage). And yes we are scared of falling. Just keep going to the gym and climbing. 1. Dedicated to increasing all our… By being smart, careful, and following hangboard protocoles that are suited for your physical strength and your fingers, you won't get injured and will actually build finger strength and resistance. Mostly due to the limited 2 hour time slots at the gym I would rather climb and train at home. But I live as a tenant in a house with 3 other guys and a landlady. For instance, if you're bad at say crimp climbs why do hangboard when you can just structure your climbing session to work on say 3-4 specific crimp climb boulders. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 439 votes, 71 comments. I really like these: https://www. Any supplemental exercises outside of climbing exceed this recoverable volume, and thus increase injury potential without additional benefit. After calibration, you won't need calipers anymore, but you'll need to count. Tldr hangboard afrer warming up on your climbing days, Monday, Wednesday, and (if you can handle the volume, Friday). And the answer is complex. Sep 18, 2024 路 Our climbing fanatic found the best hangboards of 2024. From what I've been reading, it looks like the general consensus for hangboard routines is to warm up for around 15 minutes then move on to the hangboard. Only been climbing about 6 months and don’t want to injure myself, but a hangboard would better fit in my set up than a pull up bar and I would also be able to use it down the road when im ready. Is this true for you? Thanks in advance! 3 points on this Reddit's rock climbing training community. I am 5'9" and weigh 215 lbs. My current hangboard setup is a hangboard mounted onto a pull-up bar in the standard way, but I know for a fact that many people, if not most, are too lazy to put in that DIY effort. Is hangboarding or climbing better for finger strength? I feel like I’m lacking on my finger strength and it’s the only thing letting me down to progress into the v9-10 categories, and I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on whether a dedicated hangboard routine would be better than climbing as much as I can. Is there any hangboard that in your opinion is better suited for a beginner? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Sand the edges well so they sort of look like campus rungs. Its for testing with climbers and finding out what radius they like most. 15 votes, 23 comments. Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using different holds. Im in the process of designing and making a hangboard for school. What are some of your favorite hangboards? I have considered the trango hangboard as well as the beastmaker 1000 but it's tough to choose one and I'm not sure what hangboard is best for my skill level. tohpoiauicayekjnpcljjjlosylrxlgbxmywsglsule