Trad vs sport climbing vs top rope reddit olympics. I certainly wouldn't be adverse to sorting out moves and gear on a classic trad line that was well above my onsite grade. Jun 12, 2023 · Trad climbing and sport climbing are two popular rock climbing disciplines. Some sources say bouldering If I was buying a rope for just traditional climbing, I would choose the rope with the lowest impact force. It then becomes the belayer’s job to You'll probably have it for several years and you might try a lot of different climbing styles in that time - get 4 full sized gear loops in case you want to learn to trad climb. I wasn't sure if there was a good rule of thumb about lead climbing adding a certain amount of grades of difficulty or not. And many terms mean different things, depending on the context. This discipline of climbing can take place on rock, ice or indoor climbing walls. Now I’m comfy to around 5. However, after taking a quick look at the activity, you have a hard time making your mind between 2 styles: sport climbing and traditional climbing. Have one buddy belay you on top rope loosely, a second belay you on lead tightly. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. Trad climbing is more dangerous than Sport Climbing, which makes it less popular. The skillets aren't exactly the same (trad is more endurance, and sport is more power endurance), but if you get good at one, you get good at the other. or people who can climb 12s but can't boulder v3/4s. How hard a given grade feels to an individual varies so much depending on factors like where you are, if its sport/trad, how comfortable you are with the style of climbing of that particular pitch, if you are climbing it 1500' off the ground in the middle of el cap, if the route was given its grade in 1964 vs. Climbing very obviously means different things to different people, and just like there is a difference between mountaineering and climbing, there’s a difference between climbing for the exposure / risk, and climbing for the physical/difficulty asked. I tried researching this online but get conflicting information. Question on rope length in New England 60m vs. indoor/gym climbing? As the title says, how many of you have separate ropes for outdoors (trad, sport, etc) vs indoors for the gym? (reposted with a title that actually makes sense. I am very interested in climbing outside. Unless you buy a high end sport oriented harness, they are all versatile, so buy what fits you well BTW, there is a thread for beginner's questions. 5-9. Aug 9, 2024 · How does Olympic Sport Climbing work? How is it scoried? How do athletes train? Why do some climbers wear two different shoes? etc. Most rope climbing (top, sport, trad, aid) are a lot more similar in a lot of ways to each other than they are to bouldering, and similarly, I think there are a lot more people who only participate/have a desire to participate in one group and not the other, or do so very minimally. A number of top, young U. One relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock for protection while the other involves manually placing/ removing safety gears. “Trad shoes” usually just means stiffish and flattish, sometimes designed to be worn true to size, and sometimes high top (I’ve never understood the need for a high-top shoe except in offwidth or if you need ankle support though). Learn the key differences to decide which style suits you best. And it’s a great way to build your skills up for two of the most popular styles: sport climbing and trad climbing. My SO and I got into an argument about sport climbing. I would think that top rope poses less risk for acute injury (so long as the knots and ropes are double checked) due to less impact with the ground. Thanks in advance! Not for beginners. The old school meaning of trad was to always climb from the ground up. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Aug 21, 2023 · Sport and top rope climbing differ in terms of techniques, equipment, and physical and mental demands, and they have their own pros and cons. Sport or Lead climbing is when you attach your rope, using quick draws, to fixed anchors in the wall as you go up. Belaying from the top can be better if: - The bottom of the crag is difficult or Feb 21, 2025 · Discover the differences between bouldering and top rope climbing, including safety, physical and mental challenge, cost, and social aspects. You won't be discerning enough to tell the difference between it and a tip top Petzl 8mm. Jul 17, 2019 · So you have some free time on hand and intend to pick up rock climbing. Mar 21, 2022 · Trad climbing and sport climbing have different techniques and equipment requirements. This weekend I’m thinking of trying out my first lead on a short 5. I understand the differences between top rope and lead belaying, but what are the differences for the climbing in terms of technique and physical challenges? May 11, 2025 · Sport climbing vs trad climbing: Discover key differences in gear, technique, and experience to choose the best style for you. Something else was at play. Less impact on the gear means more longevity and a greater chance for a marginal placement to hold a fall. Sport climbers are so strong that they can pull a snagged solid gate draw off of anything. Wire gates are lighter but snag on things. Therefore, pre-installed bolts distinguish sport climbing from other rock climbing disciplines. Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. Lead Climbing You must have been talking to some old dads from Yosemite or the gunks. As a consequence, the pro I place is marginal, at best. Bouldering Vs Roped Climbing Equipment Bouldering equipment only requires: climbing shoes chalk If you are climbing outside, you will need a solid crash pad that can break fall well like this Metolius crash pad. I am wondering for people who started climbing indoors as an adult, how did you transition to climbing outside? It seems that outdoor climbers have Mar 25, 2023 · I calculated the total cost of rock climbing from getting started bouldering indoors to investing in a multi-pitch trad rack! The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. That is basically trad Vs. I started by setting top rope trad anchors at Devils lake to learn the gear well. Apr 6, 2021 · With trad climbing the second climber will normally be on top rope as they go up to clean the route. I will be mainly climbing in MA, NY, and NH and wondering if I should buy a 60m or 70m rope. Probably wouldn't make a habit of it, though. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then kinda had to start over when learning on gear. Am I wrong with assuming that lead climbing and top roping are encompassed within sport climbing? IMO, use alpine draws for trad climbing. I wasn’t thrilled with how the Infinity held up, even though I know it’s a We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I took an intro to trad class about a month ago and have been mock leading to practice placements with a top rope back up. Belaying from the bottom: - Makes it easier to switch between climbing and belaying. Jan 8, 2024 · If you’re new to climbing, there are lots of strange terms and different styles of climbing that might seem confusing, but the distinction between sport and trad is really an important one. When you say "versatile" do you see yourself mountaineering or ice climbing in near future? If so, go with a harness with adjustable leg loops. Nov 15, 2023 · This was the beginning of “trad” (traditional) climbing. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • Nov 7, 2023 · This comprehensive guide will demystify three of the most popular and distinct climbing disciplines: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, and Traditional (Trad) Climbing. trad? Climbing is a diverse and exhilarating sport that encompasses a range of styles and techniques. The most I've done is climb devils tower which is multi pitch trad, I'm working towards big wall. Jun 4, 2025 · Top roping is an excellent introduction to the sport. Buy some 60cm slings and make your own alpine draws. Trad climbing As a beginner trad climber, I find that when I lead a pitch of climbing (even climbs well below my limit), the heights/exposure/fear of falling drastically reduces my ability to maintain clear focus in the gear I am placing. If I know they mostly climb indoor, I tend to assume they mean top rope indoor. Oct 25, 2023 · Traditional climbing, also known as “trad” climbing, is an older style of rock climbing that evolved from aid climbing. 8 - 5. Trad opens up more adventure-style climbing, tackling big walls and being out there on the wall for hours. I am doing sport and alpine multipitch and so far I had a single rope for sport (light, belay with grigri, easy handling rope management) and half ropes for alpine (for long abseils, extra safesty e. The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. There are many different types of rope available to today’s climbers, and we’ve outlined how to pick the best climbing rope for your needs before. Maybe the community can help me out on a question I have on trad vs sport climbing and the definition of a “true send” In trad climbing you need to place all of your own gear in order to accomplish the send In sport climbing you do not need to place all of your own quickdraws to accomplish the send, why not? Separate rope for outdoor climbing vs. Could lead climbing that same route increase its grade in theory? In my gym there are walls where you can climb top rope or lead with the permadraws along the same routes. Let's discuss each phrase and why you might lead or top rope. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. One device but I bring a backup for multipitch Different device based on discipline (sport vs trad vs alpine) Different device based on situation (single pitch vs multi, leader vs follower) Crashpad Voting closed Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best asanano • Multipitch backup is a munter Reply reply governator May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. Top Rope Climbing vs. In this article we explain the pros and cons of each! I broke my foot bouldering a month ago - I fell unexpectedly and landed poorly. ). If no strong trad ethic exists there, it's a bolting free for all. - Generally creates a more social setting. Sport climbing isn’t it? The minor distinctions climbers make between different ways of getting to the top of a cliff can seem unnecessarily arcane. By the time you've worn out your first rope you'll know what you want your second rope to do. Likely hanging some TR as well and harder multipitch. The disadvantage is that improperly placed gear or non-ideal cracks can mean that the gear will pop out in the event of a fall. Among the various styles, sport climbing and trad climbing stand out as two distinct approaches to ascending a rock face. There is also trad climbing where you do not use anchors, but put your own gear into the wall. Top Rope Climbing vs Lead Climbing Top . Aug 6, 2024 · Lead climbing is one of a number of different types of climbing. Nov 14, 2022 · Introduction Finding the right climbing rope is an essential part of getting yourself ready for vertical adventures, whether you plan on indoor climbing, sport climbing at the crag, or climbing on ice/in the alpine. If you are top roping something really tall, you might get a lot of rope stretch out of a top rope, but decking from 15 feet is crazy. Modern usage of the term trad climbing is where you place your own protection (nuts, cams, etc. I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. Next I put the two together and did some single pitch trad lead. Something between 9. May 5, 2022 · Sport climbing is a type of free climbing (meaning the climber only uses their own body to ascend the route, unaided by equipment) where the lead climber relies on pre-drilled permanent bolts to attach the rope for protection. I top rope at 5. Your ranking is defined by the highest climbing hold you reach, where the highest possible hold is the top. You can look for past Climbers of reddit! What are the essentials for sport and trad climbing? I've been climbing top rope for a few years now and I've burnt out all my local spots so I decided it's time to start sport and trad climbing. Has anyone else experienced this? Any Apr 29, 2024 · Gym climbing Indoor lead climbing Outdoor sport climbing Trad climbing Each step builds on the previous one. After lots of use and abuse on rock, ice, and at the gym, these came out on top. It is also a lot more expensive to gear up than Sport Climbing. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. Hey man, Bouldering is climbing without a rope and you do not climb nearly as high. If I know someone climbs outside regularly, I assume they mean their lead grade outdoor. He is adamant that top-roping is absolutely NOT sport climbing. It Planning to retire my old Mammut Infinity in the next few months and looking to buy something to replace it. Reddit's rock climbing training community. However, all of the people I have befriended from my gym so far are beginner to intermediate and none have climbed outside. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. For a beginner I would recommend getting the cheapest rope that's climbing rated you can find. In climbing gyms, you can find bouldering problems ranging from V0 to V8 and rock climbing routes ranging from 4 to 7c. The sporties have everything so refined because Aug 27, 2023 · Sport climbing vs. 9. But more people are climbing only in gyms or only top rope so who knows, I think it changes based on the context. - Makes communication clearer. 'Traditional' vs 'sport' climbing are the labels we use for using your own protection (trad) or using pre placed bolts (sport). Moreover, climbers are less eager to climb exposed route, and thus a big part of the climber is either climbing well bolted sport route or trad route where you can put a pro every 2 meters if you want. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). 2004, etc. I'm tired. No hanging on the rope to work out the moves (hang dogging). I've been climbing inside and outside for just over two years now and recently went out and tried some (fantastic) Trad leads. Interesting. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? 4 days ago · Since 1970, Climbing Magazine has been the voice of the climbing world, publishing climbing news, interviews, features, opinions, and advice. 8/5. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. So this is a bit of an expansion from an answer in the Friday new climber thread- I thought I'd put this together in a little more depth and give people the chance to ask questions and give feedback. I guess I went into the conversation as a somewhat ignorant climber that almost exclusively boulders, I consider climbing with ropes and safety gear (non-trad) to be sport climbing. If you try to move down on TR you'll weight the rope unless your belayer is paying attention because there's no slack out when TRing and there is when climbing sport or trad, thus giving your belayer time to react and give out more slack. when one rope gets a coreshot, reducing rope drag by clipping just one strand etc. Both of these are styles of free climbing, but what is the difference between the two? Be sure to also check our our list of the best climbing ropes. Feb 25, 2021 · What Is Sport Climbing Sport climbing is a type of rock climbing, often referred to as “lead” climbing. Trad climbers carry more biners, so some will go for the weight savings and either put up with the snagging or pay more for wire gate biners that have anti-snag stuff. If you fell you would lower to the ground, pull the rope and start it again. This being said, it depends whats holding you back. 9, and boulder at V3 with the occasional V4. The advantage is that trad climbing leaves no visible marks or scars on the rock. S. The jump to trad climbing is a little bigger, and we encourage seeking out qualified instruction – whether from a mentor, a guide, or WHAT IS ROCK CLIMBING? Simply put, rock climbing is where a person climbs – generally up, but also down and sideways! – on some rocks. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. Below is an introduction to some of the basic terms used to describe the different styles and techniques of rock climbing. climbers who have won international titles, including boulder and rope climbers like Ashima Shiraishi, Brooke Raboutou and Kai Lightner, have likely already begun spending extra time training for speed. It's not just a question of rote learning one system and off you go. I currently work in a climbing gym that offers bouldering, top rope and lead climbing. What my greater point was that, because the sport climbing final score is a product of the individual event scores, it means the number of competitors (20 in qualifying vs 7 in final) naturally influences the final standing. I carry about 8-10 at the Gunks. g. Most beginner's at my gym use the maxim equinox because its the cheapest rope that the local MEC carries. But as this activity has evolved over time, it has developed into various sub-sports or types of climbing, most of which use a rope as part of the protection and require a belayer or climbing partner. Sport climbing is very similar to indoor lead climbing, so its not a difficult transition for most. On a trad route, the leader places removable equipment into the rock face and clips their rope to protect against a massive fall. zzzzz) Best advice would be to see what he is planning on using it for. With top rope climbing, the anchor is at the top of the climb, with the rope going down one side to the belayer, and the other side to the climber. So I'm a newbie to climbing and looking to buy my first rope. 10+/5. Feb 2, 2025 · There are significant differences between bouldering and top rope climbing from safety to health and cost. It took many years before people started rappelling down from the top, carrying electric drills and placing bolts on the wall, establishing a route for what came to be known as “sport” climbing somewhere in the 80’s. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? Let's say a route is set at a certain difficulty for top rope. Do you see yourself multi-pitch climbing? Buy a harness with with 4 gear loops. The intended use is for single pitch trad and sport climbing, at the project level. Nov 27, 2023 · This article provides an in-depth comparison between sport climbing and trad climbing, including gear, types of routes, and safety measures. Background- 10 years of climbing outdoors, two years climbing retail, and I'm an AMGA guide. I guess if you only have sport climbing buddies, the next best system is to find a route that'll take gear but can be set up on top rope. See full list on climbingschool. au Jun 14, 2024 · Trad was the foundation of the sport, and as the sport has evolved into commercial gyms, the Olympics, and more, many outdoor enthusiasts love the mental, physical, and adventure challenge trad climbing presents. Top or Bottom? Depending on the terrain, the length of your rope and the anchor arrangement, you may choose to belay from the top or the bottom of the crag. Learn the essential distinctions today! Lead Climbing: Athletes climb a lead climbing wall, which is typically a lot taller than a bouldering wall and therefore requires a rope for safety. With lead climbing, the rope starts at the bottom of the climb, with one end tied to the climber and the belayer attaching a short length away from that. I'd also love any recommendations you guys have on rope choice. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. Before you dismiss a harness as too expensive, think critically about what it really costs over its lifetime. I used to care about solid gates and gate flutter, but I stopped giving a toodleboot about Dec 27, 2022 · Most commercial climbing gyms provide lead and top rope climbing. A fair chunk of trad climbing in the UK is face climbing. When the leader reaches the top of the climb, they use their equipment to build a climbing anchor. For someone that is new to rock climbing, it What makes you enjoy sport/trad climbing? Is it the adventure? The physical challenge? Getting a little scared running it out but keeping the headspace you need to execute? All of the above? Bouldering is similar, but I think boulderers and trad climbers are driven by different things. Sport climbing is the most popular style now, and when climbing starts to invade the minds of people like the Hungarians, they want to sport climb. Trad climbing routes tend to either have a bolt or two to rappel from or even just a tree or boulder to wrap a rope around. Let him try them on and purchase the he likes the most. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. I primarily boulder and always thought things were technical just because they felt difficult or had to be precise on my boulder projects but those sport and trad climbers have so many more knee bars hand jams slabs faces pockets dihedral aretes. Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. What is your grade bouldering vs sport vs top rope? I know that some people boulder v4/5s but can't climb 10s because of endurance. Jun 13, 2021 · Love rock climbing and confused by the styles? Pelican defines the six key differences in trad vs. Yosemite has a heavy bias or 'ethic' toward trad and only those walls where you absolutely cannot get a piece of gear into the wall for a long distance get bolted. This is quite dangerous, and is holding me back from pursuing trad climbing. If you've been watching the Olympics sport climbing at Paris 2024 you'll have noticed there are three competitive formats: speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. "low elongation" ropes for toprope at most gyms) so people are always surprised at how much they stretch, so you usually want to hold people a bit tight at the base of the climb and when they are climbing right above a ledge. Even then, I prefer a draw that's flexible. The obvious example is speed climbing, but between bouldering and sport climbing (lead and top) the gap has increased the last years due to the modern style of setting. 7, but it took so long to get here that it feels like I’ll never be a 5. Sport draws are too rigid for use on nut placements and don't help that much on cam placements unless the line you climb is very straight. 4 or so. Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. Find out what sets the two styles apart and choose your favorite. Oct 12, 2020 · Many climbers differentiate their sport leading grade from their top-rope climbing grade and their trad leading grade. Once your comfortable with the basics in your toolbox and once building trad anchors with gear becomes within your practice, you would begin setting top ropes with actual trad gear. 8 It'll be thin and supple, but beefy and durable enough to last you a 62 votes, 35 comments. I was leading up to about 5. There are bomber looking trees in the back of your photo. Hey guys, I have been bouldering for 3 months and just starting climbing top rope. Jun 15, 2025 · Explore the gear, techniques, routes, and culture that set traditional (trad) climbing apart from sport climbing. 11-, trad 5. Top roping allows climbers to ascend taller walls secured by a rope running from a belayer at the base to an anchor point at the top of the climb. trueI would argue route climbing gets you way more technical skills. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. We'll explore their core principles, essential gear, safety considerations, and the unique experiences they offer, providing a clear understanding of what sets each vertical pursuit apart. According to the charts I have seen this all lines up (the trad downgrade being a purely fear thing which I’m working on). You need to be thoroughly versed in all aspects of climbing ropework systems. Curious what folks use and are happy with. Apr 24, 2025 · We tied into 17 climbing ropes to find the best of the best. Indeed, in all other forms of technical roped climbing, a leader must God damn it was so much fun. Lead climbing involves clipping a rope into protection while ascending a route from the ground up. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. Climbing lead is also different, you might want to work on endurance and footwork, you are holding your entire weight for the climb unlike top rope and you have to stop to place protection, precise moves will help prevent you from burning out. 10 trad climber. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. I know everyone always says work on your feet, but it is probably the universal truth of climbing. Wondering what peoples thoughts are on some of the best climbing ropes? I would mainly be using it for gym climbing but I would like to go outside occasionally. 70m. Yes, headpointing (redpointing via top-rope on gear routes) followed by a ground-up gear ascent feels a lot more like sport climbing, but it seems to be done mostly on sport-like routes, so it makes sense. Jun 6, 2025 · We took to the whips to find the best climbing ropes for every type of climbing, with top picks from Sterling, Mammut, and Edelrid. How do you plan to get to your sport anchor or set up your trad anchor? Do you know how to rig - and pass - redirects around any rope-threatening edges? Hard single pitch - whatever shoe is right for what I’m climbing. Generally, people find that the grade that they are able to top-rope is higher than the grade that they can sport lead and that their sport leading grade is higher than their trad leading grade. com. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. You “lead” both sport and trad climbs – but not in the same way. Sometimes it's actually cheaper to buy sport draws and cannibalize the carabiners. Your first rope should be a 9. I’ve been wondering if I should quit bouldering and stick with top rope. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. 2nd thing is that your rope will stretch a lot more since its dynamic (vs. The prevailing assumption has been leading a route outdoor. Their concern is rightly placed in the development of climbing in developing countries. I'm looking to spend under 200 dollars. Even when you know which type Dec 5, 2024 · Climbers relish the thrill of tackling problems and the satisfaction of reaching the top, making bouldering a fun and rewarding activity. A discussion on sport vs trad climbing with information about the similarities and differences and which might be best for you. 12a max, sport lead 5. sport climbing, their advantages, requirements and more. I also practiced sport leading outside. wrzk uirty htd xyazsmul mmrmh umjr titz hjtkv npzfrdbb hwhwl